I been working on recovery bags the last couple weeks and here is the small one i came up with. It holds 1 snatch, 1 tree savor, 2 clevis, 1 wench controller in its own MOLLE pouch on the front, gloves in there own Velcro pouch on the front, and a pulley on the back.

From the top 

Wench control pouch

Wire choice: so I am using AWG wire. Mostly because it’s about 10% bigger than SAE and that is what I have , so that is what i’m going to use. The list below is for AGM wire you can reduce by 10% for SAE . Now the only thing I really know about electricity is there is smoke running through the wire and in to something (like your fuse box or light) and back out to the ground . The key to thing Remember when doing wiring is you don’t want to let the smoke out, bad things happen when the smoke gets out. You know like fire.

Wire chart for AGM

Wire size. OD. Max Amp
18——–7/64″——10
16——–1/8″——-12
14——–9/16″——17
12——–5/32″——22
10——–7/32″——30
8———5/16″——40
6——–11/32″—–60
4——–13/32″—–80
2——–15/32″—–105
1——–17/32″—–122
Chart modified form
Wiring Jeep Lights – Randy’s Electrical Corner
Wire for Lights
From the February, 2009 issue of Jp
By Randy

For the Main power I am using 2 gage wire in to the battery separator( recommended size from the battery separator company) I am using an Anderson power connector to plug in to the vehicle.

The separator is what is what enables me to use different batters if you don’t use a separator your battery’s need to be the same and same age. For my purpose I want to move this from vehicle to vehicle or stand alone, and the separator is what allows us to do that.

For the fuse box positive and ground 6 gage wire. The fuse box feed 5 relays 4 are for power outlets 2 50amp Anderson connectors , 2 are for 12v out lets (lighter outlets) and one go’s to the battery separator’s override.

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There is 2 gage wire that go to a 175 amp Anderson power connector for things like jumper cables,wench or other high draw appliances.

The wire harnesses for the relays have 16 gage wire I run that in to a cat5 outlet so I can put a remote switch box in the front of the vehicle.

I have been assembling/reaching parts for this project for about 4 month now. And here is what I have come with.

1.In coming power uses Anderson power connectors 175 amp yellow ( you can only connect the same colors so all the main power from the vehicle will be the same color connector)

2. 200 amp battery separator for in coming power mounted in the box so it will always be there no matter what vehicle I have it pluged in to. The battery separator keep both battery’s at the same voltage but prioritizes the main battery if the backup drops in voltage, but will allow the back up battery to flow to the main battery if it needs a boost. There is a switch for this.

3. 1 main power out, going throught a 140amp breaker to a red 175amp Anderson power connector so I can attach jumper cables or other height draw tools ( all out bound power go’s throught the breaker first). All our vehicle have a breaker on the outbound power to things like wenches jumper cables and what not.

4. 2 50 amp Anderson power connectors. 1 for an inverter to be mounted to the top of the box. 1 for an air compression or other medium draw tools.

5. All the lower draw outlets are on 30 or 40 amp relays that go to a portable switch box connected with cata5 cable (they just operate the relays) so I can run the cable in the vehicle and just plug in the switch box and the battery box and leave the cable when I move it. That I can control of the out lets no matter where the box is mounted.

6. 2 12 v outlet’s for charging stuff and plugging in DVD players — gota keep the kid happy.